THB6064 MassMind.org Driver Assembly instructions
The printed circuit board only. Double sided, plated thru holes,
THB6460AH aka TB6564 Bipolar 4.5A, 48V
Including the Chip and PCB listed above
0.2 Ohm SMD 2W WSR2
0.2 Ohm SMD 2W WSR2
Potentiometer 5K Trim
Electrolytic 10µ 16V
Electrolytic 470µ 63V
0.1" 2x5 Shrouded PMinMO w/Step, Dir, En and +5volt power.
Header 0.1" 2 x 5
0.2" Terminal Block
Header 0.1" 2x1 shorted to provide +5 volts from PMinMO connection.
1 10K Ohm ¼W. R1-3 and R5 are replaced with a single network resistor
RN3 in Rev 1.1
2K7 Ohm ¼W
47K Ohm ¼W
470 Ohm ¼W
2K2 Ohm ¼W
330-2K2 Ohm ¼W Power LED current limit. On Rev 1.1, this resistor
is labeled R1 vice R21
4K7 Ohm ¼W Error LED current limit, LED will be very dim, but a
lower resistor will blow the output.
On Rev 1.1, this resistor is labeled R7 vice R36
Red LED 3mm
Green LED 3mm
On Rev 1.1 PCB, the resistor labeled R2 is not needed for standard operation
of the error LED. The ERR LED is installed at Q1, not below the 5V power
Power regulator option
On the original and rev 1.1 of the PCB, you can provide the +5 logic power
from the motor power supply by adding a voltage regulator. This will not
fry the THB6064AH they way
will fry the TB6065, because it protects against latch up on start.
240 Ohm ¼W Used for LM317 type power regulator.
680 Ohm ¼W Used for LM317 type power regulator.
LM317 Voltage Regulator
Amplified Error Reporting
For Rev 1.1 PCB's: Note that this option is not supplied with the kit,
and is a non-standard , use of the PMinMO connector to feed back an error
condition to the PC or other motion controller. The error pin from the THB6064AH
has very limited drive strength. To safely drive an input back to a PC,
it needs some amplification. For this option, R7 should be 10K, and a standard
switching transistor (e.g. BC557) installed as Q1 to provide an amplified
error signal. In this case, R2 can be a ~560 Ohm resistor which will not
only drive an error LED installed on the side of R2 near the mounting bolt,
but which can also be routed to pin 7 of the PMinMO header by cutting the
trace which connects pin 7 to the ground pin 8, and then wiring pin 7 to
10 K Ohm
1. Long lead in the square hole. Pin one or the
positive lead is always marked on our PCBs with a square hole. On components
where pin one isn't marked on the component package, the longer lead is always
positive, and we make that pad square on the PCB.
2. Don't solder the component in right next to the PCB; leave a little bit
(1/4 inch, 1 mm) of lead.
a. This helps prevent the component from overheating when you solder, and
during operation. It also gives you some lead to cut if you need to repair
the board or if you get the component in the wrong hole. Trying to desolder
the leads without cutting them is much more likely to damage the PCB.
b. To keep the components off the PCB, insert the leads so that the component
is about a quarter inch up, then bend the leads together at that point, crossing
them over each other at about 45 degrees. You could also bend them out, but
then they would be in the way of the soldering iron, which is almost always
coming in from the outer edge of the board. When you turn the PCB over to
solder on the back side, the component will fall down to the point where
the lead is bent, providing the correct spacing on the component side.
c. Solder one lead, stop and check the positioning and that it is the right
component in the right place the right way around... then solder the other
3. Work from the inside toward the edge, low components to high components.
It's best to solder down any SMT components first, since they are certainly
the lowest, then work up and out. Solder a few through hole components in
a line if you can, then clip leads and do the next line.
4. It's important to clip all leads as short as possible to prevent shorts
to the heatsink.
Keep the leads... they become the jumper for the power source and can
be used for the test points.
1. [ ]
Surface mount Resistors. There are only two surface mount devices
on this board, unless you count the driver chip as SMT because of the way
it's being mounted. The components are large compared to most SMD and they
really are easy to solder. The only trick is that there are no holes to hold
the components in place by the leads, so you need some way to keep them
in place while you solder. Almost anything that has 3 or 4 corners and won't
melt can be used. A metal box, a heat sink, an aluminum extrusion,
anything. Probably the best is made from vice grips and a screw driver tip.
If you don't have vice grips, wrap a rubber band around the far end of the
handle of a pair of pliers. Or just tape one side of the part down with clear
Once the part is held down in position, touch the pad, next to the end of
the part, solder, flow, off. Solder one side of each part, check position,
solder the other side.
2. [ ]
There are several
different values of resistors and a lot of the values look alike. Take care
and be sure you have it right before you proceed. For example, there are
47K, 4K7, and 470. And there is a mix of 4 and 5 band resistors (low and
high precision). Getting them right is harder than you think, certainly harder
that soldering surface mount components. An amazing percentage of people
are, at least partially, color blind. Some don't know it until they start
trying to sort out resistors. And even if you aren't, it takes a strong light
and good luck to tell orange from gold or brown from purple on some of these
strongly recommend using a multimeter to check the values of the
resistors rather than reading the color codes. When using a meter to read
resistance, be sure not to let your fingers touch both leads. In other words,
one test lead should be held to the resistor lead by a clip, or by pressing
it against a surface and NOT by holding the two together with your fingers.
Otherwise, the reading can be off due to the lower resistance path offered
by your skin.
If you must read the bands, start by arranging them with the colorful bands
to the left. In most cases, that will give you the correct order, with the
tolerance band on the right and the actual value reading from left to right.
There are exceptions. The 5 band 10K resistors currently supplied with the
kit are brown, black, black, red, brown (1, 0, 0, two more zeros, and a 1%
tolerance). Read it each way, figure out which one makes more sense given
the resistors in the set... and then check it with your meter. Really...
For less than $25 you can get a half way decent digital multimeter (watch
out, it doesn't include the special battery) from your local Radio Shack
right now or order one from eBay china and wait a month for it to show up.
Believe it or not, WalMart (gag) sells a pretty good one in most of their
stores: The "Equus 3320 Innova" for less than $20.
The PCB is marked with the values rather than the component name to eliminate
another possible source of error in transcribing the part (R1) to the value
(10K) to the actual physical component (brown, black, black, red, brown OR
brown black orange gold). Now you just go from value to component. There
wasn't room to put the colors on the PCB.
On the first version of the PCB "Rev. 1.0" the resistor supplied for
R21, to pin 1 of RN2, which is marked on the PCB as being 560, may actually
be anything from 330 up to 1K. This is not a critical value component. Populate
the other resistors first, and whatever is left over, should be a value in
that range, and should be installed for the 560 or R1. On Rev 1.1 this same
resistor is marked R1 next.
On the first version of the PCB "Rev. 1.0" the value for R36 (next
to the Err LED) is incorrectly printed as 560 when that resistor must be
a 4K7. Place the supplied 4K7 resistor in the position marked "560". Note: On the Rev 1.1, PCB "ERROR LED" R36 is labeled R7 on the new board
and should be 4K7 with the red LED installed on the side of R2 above J7 with
the long lead in the square hole marked Q1 and the short lead in the hole
nearest the "E" in ERR. R2 is not used. This provides a simple error indicator
via the LED and no amplification of the error signal.
3. [ ]
Variable Resistor: This is the drive current adjustment. It
can be installed either way but being able to get in there to turn it is
the trick. Make sure you will be able to get to it after installing the other
components. On PCB Rev 1.1, it's probably best to install it facing the edge
of the board. If you install it facing the capacitors, and you leave about
¼ of lead between each capacitor and the PCB, you can bend them
over out of the way after they are soldered down and so clear a path
to adjust the current. Take care not to melt the case by letting each lead
cool a bit after soldering.
If you like, you can even bend the leads on the variable resistor and
install it flat agasint the PCB, with the shaft up. It will just hang a bit
over the edge that way
4. [ ]
Network Resistors: It's all about the dot. Network resistors
all have a (very tiny, dimly printed, very hard to see) dot at one end, usually
down next to the pin. That pin is pin 1 and pin 1 goes in the square hole.
Bend the outermost pins out so it won't fall down when you turn it over to
solder it. Then push the pins back down so they are just through the hole
so you leave a little lead on the component side. Solder one pin, check
positioning, and solder the rest.
5. [ ]
The little capacitors
will be marked with a number: 101 or 104 which represents the first two digits
and the number of zeros in pico Farads. 101 is 100pF. 104 is 100000pF or
100nF or 0.1uF. So the ones marked 100n on the PCB get the 104's and the
100p's get 101s. Capacitors: (on the Rev1.0 PCB only: Watch out for the block of caps
between VR1 (the current adjust potentiometer) and the top of the board;
the top cap is 100p, not 100n. The 100n is the second one down. The next
two are 100p. Note: Be sure to install those caps next to the current adjust
potentiometer in such a way that you can bend them down clear of the screwdriver
so you can make that adjustment.) On the Rev 1.1 PCB, all the caps are
clearly labeled and do not get in the way of the current adjust pot.
The bigger electrolytic caps go in with the long lead in the square hole,
and the stripe side towards the round hole. It's probably best to set those
aside and come back to them after you have done all the other components.
And the really big one is an exception to the "leave some leads" rule. It
can be installed all the way down on the PCB for physical stability.
6. [ ]
The long lead goes in
the square hole, leave a little lead so the LEDs are up off the PCB and where
you can see them. On the Rev 1.1 PCB, with a standard build, the Red LED
should be installed between the ERR and Q1 labeled holes (long pin in the
square hole as always) and NOT at the position labeled ERR near the 5V indicator
LED. If you want to feed back the error signal to your controller see the
"Rev 1.1 Option 2 "AMPLIFIED ERROR FEEDBACK" text above. This is not recommended.
7. [ ]
Terminal Blocks: Slide the two sets of
terminal blocks together so that the rail and groove interlock.
8. [ ]
Jumpers: When you solder on the 2x5 header for the options
jumpers and the shrouded 2x5 PMinMO header, it's a good idea to bounce around
in the pin order rather than just going down the line. It keeps the plastic
from getting soft and perhaps not holding the pins straight.
Note the notch in the shrouded header is towards the resistors. On the Rev
1.1 board, the order of the option jumpers has been re-arranged in numerical
9. [ ] Use one of the clipped resistor or other component leads to short
J7 so you can get logic power via the PMinMO header. The PMinMO header can
be connected to the 4Axis board, or directly to a PC parallel port cable.
You can provide power on that PMinMO header, pin 9 from the 4 Axis board,
a USB port, or your own 5+ regulated power source. If you keep that J7 jumper
wire up off the board a little, it makes a great test point for logic power.
10. [ ]
Test Points: Form loops from a couple clipped leads and push
both ends into the hole for the VREF test point and the GND test point.
Preliminary Inspection and Test:
11. [ ] At this point, without the chip installed, do a visual inspection,
preferably with a magnifying glass. Then apply 5V logic power at pin 9 of
the PMinMO header. Now the 5V logic power system can be checked, the +5v
led should be on and the Vref can be measured and adjusted to a low value:
0.4-0.5V. Power off and prepare for finally assembly.
12. [ ]
The big THB6064AH chip: Since this product has a MOS structure,
it is sensitive to electrostatic discharge. These ICs are highly sensitive
to electrostatic discharge. When handling them, please be careful of
electrostatic discharge, temperature and humidity conditions. Wear a grounding
strap when touching the chip and work on an anti-static surface.
The IC fin is electrically connected to the rear of the chip. If current
flows to the fin, the IC will malfunction. If there is any possibility of
a voltage being generated between the IC GND and the fin, either ground the
fin or insulate it. We recommend that you directly connect the IC to the
heatsink, and ground the heatsink.
If consistent mounting hole locations are important to you, use a drilled
heatsink or template plate for this last step. A
drill guide is available, if you
print it, make sure you set your PDF viewer to print at the real size and
not shrink to fit to the page. Drill and tap for
Mount the chip and PCB using 3 #4-40 or M3 screws. Temporarily mount the
chip to the heatsink first. Mount the PCB with a spacer to raise it up a
bit so it won't short out underneath. Spacer height can be about ? inch or
3mm. You can use an M3 or #4-40 nut which you drill through with a 3mm or
1/8th" drill + a couple of washers. A stack of washers should work also.
Or cut off a bit of tubing. We used part of an old bic pen barrel. Slide
the PCB between the chip's pins, align it carefully, and screw it down.
The wide point on the outer pins should be just at the edge of the PCB. Any
farther in, and the pins will start to spread apart and not lie flat on the
pads. Make sure all the pins are flat on the pads so the solder will flow
nicely over the length of the pin and form a strong connection. Bend them
carefully if needed. Solder one pin by placing the tip of the iron on the
pad near the pin and let the solder flow around and under the pad. Check
placement, alignment, and orientation and then solder down the rest of the
pins. It's a good idea to bounce around and pause once in awhile to keep
the heat from building up in the chip.
Now take the chip and the PCB off the heatsink, turn them over and solder
the pins on the back side.
Finally, reassemble with a bit of heatsink paste under the chip. That paste
makes a huge difference in high temperature operation.
Final Test / Power Up
13. [ ] Apply only the +5 volt power again, verify the power LED lights and
nothing gets hot.
14. [ ] Power off, connected motor power and the motor. For help with sorting
out the motor leads, see:
Stepper Motor wiring
15. [ ] Verify the current control potentiometer is set all the way to the
lowest setting. Apply logic power first, then motor power. The motor should
lock, but not turn. Make sure the drive chip and motor are not heating. Carefully
adjust the current setting to 30% of the motors rated capacity. Why only
30%? Because when the motor is not turning, the driver is in idle and as
soon as it gets a step pulse, it's going to increase the drive power
Please do NOT measure the current via the +VM or positive
motor supply lead: Because this is a chopper driver, the current measured
at the +VM line is much lower than the actual motor; as much as a quarter
to a fifth the actual current. Please set the current by measuring the
To calculate the correct VRef voltage:
Io = Vref * 1/3 * 1/Rs
Since Rs = 0.20 Ohms then Io = Vref * 1.667
For example, when Vref = 2.4 volts, Io = 4 amps (max) and when
Vref = 0.5 volts, Io = < 1 amp (minimum)
16. [ ] Now connect the step and direction signals and spin the motor. Let
it work for at least 10 minutes to verify that nothing is overheating.
TakeThisOuTalessandro.torrebo at gmail.com
Hi james, forgive my ignorant question of electronic, but is it possible,
with ramps 1.4 and marlin, move 3 axis, and then 3 stepper motors of my 3d
printer, with the kit "3 AXIS FULL KIT"? ?If no, what else (or less) I need?
Thank you in advance.
Newton of MassMind replies: No worries! The RAMPS board would replace
the 4Axis board in that kit, so you only need 3 of the THB6064 driver kits,
and you will need to make a cable to connect the RAMPS board to the drivers.
I'll be happy to help you make the cable, showing which wires need to connect
where. In the future, we hope to provide a ready made cable, but that is
not available yet. +
can I work this driver
with nx 7.5 cam software
Newton of MassMind replies: Any system that puts out step and direction
pulses should work just fine. +
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And stepper controllers can be strong and cheap.
Stepper motors CAN be smooth! Linistep
stepper controller kits:
o 18th microstep
o Linear smoothing
o Open source
o Full kit $25!
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